Johannesburg - As the sun sinks and the night sky darkens, the tinkling of water in the fountains and the twittering of birds roosting is almost the only sound. There is, far away, the occasional hum of something. The autostrada perhaps?
As we sit on the terrace and sip our cocktails, a decadent Margarita for me and a strawberry Daiquiri for her – and look out on the manicured Tuscan gardens and Romanesque statuery here and there, you can’t help but know the Italians have it right when it comes to comfort and relaxing. And romance… after all, this is a special occasion. An anniversary.
And what better place to spend it than in… Fourways?
Every now and again, there is a freeze-frame reality check. Yes, this is Joburg. The place of people, traffic and elegant good taste (well, the last one – not so much).
On the terrace of the luxury Palazzo Hotel – the jewel in the crown of the Montecasino complex – you could be fooled into thinking you’re in the Tuscan countryside.
And that is a surprise for me. Because I have been one of those who could not believe it when, 15 years ago, Tsogo Sun put up this place – confirmation, if it was ever needed, that fake goes far in this mining town.
I always wondered what the Italians would think. I got the opportunity to find out last year, when my son and his Italian girlfriend visited from Amsterdam. We met them in one of the “town streets”, outside a Portuguese restaurant. Over some good red wine, and chorizo, while a street musician played soft and soothing jazz in the background, I asked her what she thought.
Not bad was her verdict.
So, there, maybe I was being a bit hard on the place.
And the Terrace at the Palazzo is a mellow place to be at sunset. Our room upstairs (a suite in the recently renovated hotel) is modern, stylish and has its own capsule coffee machine. Very Italian. Very chic.
We decide to hit the town rather than dine in the Palazzo’s own restaurant, Medeo, which, as the name implies, specialises in Mediterranean food. I know, from attending some of Tsogo’s functions at the hotel, that the food they produce is top class. Tonight, though, we’re looking for a vibe.
And we find it in spades. Monte is pumping tonight. There are hundreds of people all over; the streets are teeming and the myriad restaurants are filling up quickly. There is plenty of entertainment, with cinemas and stage shows being the most popular.
And, clearly, people like being in this little faux Italian bubble. Where else in Joburg can you walk the streets at night? Think about it…
We find our Portuguese restaurant again – Alta Beira it’s called – and have an excellent meal. And even better service from a man called Dean. Easily one of the top three waiters I have met in South Africa.
We swim against the stream of people and slowly wend our way back to the hotel, where we’re greeted by Black Forest gateau and a chocolate-piped “Happy Anniversary” on the plate… and there are roses in a heart shape on the bed.
Tell them it is a special occasion and they’ll do these things for you.
In the morning, a superb breakfast on the terrace puts the bow on the show of what was a great getaway.
It is just 23km back to the house, covered in a fraction under 19 minutes. The shortest travel trip I have yet made.
If you have a special occasion to celebrate, or you just want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city, why don’t you go to Tuscany for the night?
l www.tsogosun.com
Saturday Star