Living Room
Where:
Summerhill Estate, 9 Belvedale Road, Cowies Hill
Open:
Tuesday to Friday, 6.30pm-9pm
Call:
0635291966
This week on World Cancer Day, a group of intrepid foodies relished a meal that was part of the Pink Table Project, at Durban’s acclaimed fine dining establishment, the Living Room, in Cowies Hill.
The project was raising funds for the Pink Drive, South Africa’s mobile mammography and educational testing units.
All dressed in pink, although in some cases the pink only extended to lipstick, we looked forward to a plant-based menu from chef Johannes Richter, whose eatery was voted one of South Africa’s top 20, by Eat Out, last year. His challenge was to prove that healthy food choices could be sexy and exciting, as well as challenging even for the most jaded of palates.
In the Uber, on the way out, we debated the difference between a plant-based and vegan diet. The view was that they are pretty much the same thing. There was even the view that plant-based was used by the posh people, who didn’t want to be associated with the politics of veganism.
In reality, plant-based diets do include some animal products. In the case of our delicious-sounding five-course dinner, cheese and butter were certainly in use. There is even an argument that plant-based diets are healthier than vegan ones because there is less processing to get substitutes for meat products. But that is an argument I don’t want to get into.
The menu was intriguing. We marvelled at what looked like decidedly odd combinations, and there was a debate about whether we would need to stop for boerie rolls on the way home.
We snacked on their excellent sourdough, served with a granadilla butter, before the amuse bouche arrived. This was a pretty little “mousse” of layered corn and rhubarb, topped with fermented corn and fried halloumi, served on the side on a pebble. This was, maybe, slightly odd because we had to share this delicate little morsel with our dining neighbour. It didn’t really give you the opportunity to savour the flavours.
The starter was a delightful feta “cheesecake” served with a powerful kimchi (a Korean salted and fermented cabbage) and slices of watermelon. Delicious. “Fantabulous,” my one dining colleague pronounced.
Mains was a collection of super crisp mini falafels, arranged in a dahl and served with radishes and prunes. This was a beautiful dish. The sweetness of the prunes and the light spiciness of the dahl, and the crisp of the radish, all adding to the flavours
Dessert was an ode to the local Umdoni berry, with white chocolate and a palm heart “cream”. It was served with a bottle of their own home-made Umdoni berry wine, which fizzed up over the bottle, when it was opened with much aplomb at the table. I appreciated its sweet and fermented flavours, although, when it comes to wine, I still think the humble grape is best.
Petit fours were a bit of an adventure. We had to find them hidden in a bonzai’d spekboom plant that was brought to the table. These delicious morsels of litchi, in dark chocolate topped with a spekboom leaf, were worth the search. One of our party even wanted to take the plant home - maybe she hoped it would produce more delicious “fruit”.
The Pink Menu cost R400, with R300 being donated to the Pink Drive. Menus at the Living Room change frequently, but the pink menu gives an idea of what’s cooking in the kitchen.
We left well satisfied, having enjoyed a feast of exciting flavours. And no, we didn’t need to stop at some fast food joint on the Uber back home.
Food:
4½
Service:
4
Ambience:
4