One night in Elim

Published Aug 19, 2014

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ABOUT 11km from the Atlantic Ocean and between Elim and Cape Agulhas, the Strandveld Vineyards roll across two farms, the 44ha Blomfontein and 25ha Uintjieskuil.

“Where earth and ocean meet, there lies the magic,” the slogan reads.

We were in for an unexpectedly magical evening in one of the most tranquil surroundings the southern Cape has to offer.

The trip of nearly three hours had seemed never-ending, with the dreary, wet Cape weather doing its bit to dampen our spirits on this much-needed getaway from an arduous working week.

We climbed Sir Lowry’s Pass, passed through Grabouw to Caledon, and found the R316, where intermittent cellphone and GPS coverage made us fear the worst.

With the tank on reserve, panic crept in. Thankfully, as luck would have it, a filling station wasn’t far off and we got directions from an attendant on duty.

But 40 minutes later anxiety resurfaced. It seemed we were nowhere near our destination, which the helpful attendant had assured us was not far away.

To make matters worse, the dirt road we found ourselves on was flooded from recent rains.

It would have been risky to take the car into the water. We could get stuck with no way to call for help.

We turned around and headed back to the tar road.

As fate would have it, our GPS and cellphone reception was restored and I could phone a friend, who guided us to Bredasdorp, explaining that we needed to turn south down the R319 and right on to the R43.

Eventually, we arrived at the Strandveld Vineyards, a humble little estate tucked away in Elim. It was a sight for sore eyes after that adventurous drive.

We were greeted by the owner and winemaker Conrad Vlok, who escorted us to our north-facing cottage for our one-night stayover.

The farm has two colonial-style, self-catering cottages. Both have modern kitchen finishes and a fireplace that is ideal for cosy winter evenings.

Our double-bed cottage had a rustic feel, with antique plates on the walls and wood finishes.

The absence of television programming could have been a problem. Having never missed an episode of Noot vir Noot, I now had to make do without Johan Stemmet and his band.

But the void was filled with laughter, much talk about activities for the next day, and a YouTube search for winemaker Conrad Vlok’s favourite Bok van Blerk (featuring Robbie Wessels) song, Ek en My Vlerk.

Soon after we had settled in, we were taken on a tour of the vineyards, to see the sauvignon blanc and shiraz harvest on the vine.

We found several vantage points with scenic views of the vineyards and the picnic area. We took in the country air – somewhat icy – and beauty of the farm down the trail.

I could not help but stretch as Kate Winslet did in that scene from the movie Titanic. Listening to Conrad speak with passion about his vineyards was an education. The cool climate and location are ideal for producing special wines, with Strandveld and First Sighting being the vineyards’ signature ranges.

Strandveld wines are made from the fruit of specially selected vines. Only a few thousand bottles are made from the finest grapes, grown in specific soil – for example, yellow ferricrete for the sauvignon blanc.

First Sighting pays homage to the Portuguese explorers who were inspired to discover the sea route to the spice-rich East.

Immersed in the picture-perfect surroundings, I was brought down to earth when Conrad said: “Be careful of the puff adders.”

I jumped and walked briskly towards the end of the trail.

The sun was about to set and we needed to head back.

We were treated to a home-cooked surf-and-turf dinner by the Vloks. We gathered in the dining area, where the table was set for six guests, and we got to taste some of Strandveld’s signature wines.

Strandveld Vineyards was awarded a hat trick in the Tim Atkins SA wine report – underlining the high standing the Elim-produced sauvignon blanc has achieved among top UK wine commentators.

Sauvignon blanc remains the country’s first choice of wine. Cool, crisp and great to sip, it goes well with seafood.

The First Sighting sauvignon blanc is refreshing. The other varietals – shiraz and pinot noir – are said to be enhanced by a slow-ripening process.

My favourite, The Navigator, true to its Strandveld terroir, has a story to tell, with its cool spice, white pepper and clove aromas.

With a cellar tour lined up, I was excited to see how the signature wines were made. The tasting room also has a few tales of its own.

Strandveld Vineyards’ closely knit team of 27 made the stay humbling and rewarding.

But finding this gem in the middle of the Agulhas Plain had been only the beginning of our adventure.

After leaving it on Saturday, we headed for Cape Agulhas, at the southernmost tip of Africa, where the two oceans meet.

Conditions were extremely windy, but it was an experience of a lifetime – breathtaking and a tick on my bucket list.

The lighthouse, with its museum, offers a 360-degree panoramic view.

At first glance, you might think there is little to see at the southernmost tip of Africa, except for the lighthouse and where the two oceans meet.

That impression soon melts away when you engage the locals – their hospitality is the key to unlocking the hidden treasures Strandveld has to offer.

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