IT’S ENCHANTING, quirky and totally unexpected. Sandwiched into bustling, shop-lined Kloof Street is a tranquil oasis of calm in a historic house turned restaurant.
Here designer Erina Delport, by scouring markets and second-hand shops for a medley of period pieces, fabrics, rugs and mirrors, and assembling them with a sure touch, has created an appealing haven of old-world charm within a sheltered garden.
Wherever you look there’s something to catch your attention, or make you smile. Old-fashioned gramophones rub shoulders with glass-cased, covetable items under chandeliered ceilings. And do eyeball the well-stocked bar, made entirely from travelling cases, plus the inviting bar-lounge, opulently cosy and Chesterfield-couched.
The upwardly mobile young professionals who live or work in the Kloof Street area have already claimed the venue. Even though parking is a nightmare, it’s the latest “in” spot for Sunday jazz lunches, cocktails after work or romantic dinners à deux under the stars.
But it’s equally attractive if you’re looking for a power lunch, or somewhere peaceful where you’ll be able to relax and admire your surroundings from your conservatory-style table. I loved the dainty shoes on display – and was amused to see a print of Alicia Markova (famous for her poignant “dying swan” interpretation) among the pictures. As a ballet-struck schoolgirl I hung the same print on my bedroom wall.
This is an ambience crying out for retro dishes. Treat your tastebuds to the ultimate indulgence of mouth-melting baked whole camembert, served in an individual copper pan and enhanced with caramelised onions and homemade cranberry jelly.
And I’m hoping head chef Richie Tewnion (who trained under Jamie Oliver) will introduce crêpes Suzette, flamed at the table, despite Jamie’s pervading belief in “easy peasy” fresh dishes.
Don’t expect fireworks. Rather than barrier-breaking, this is well-presented, flavoursome and generous food. There’s something for all pockets and palates, plain or sophisticated.
Go classic with beer-battered fish, minted peas, tartare sauce and hand-cut chips, or upmarket with Norwegian salmon (served medium), sweet braised fennel, curly cake and sauce vierge.
Carnivorous choices range from a 150g grilled beef steak roll with rocket and hand-cut peri-peri chips, beefed up with optional feta or avocado, to exotic Moroccan spiced lamb rump with herbed couscous, red cabbage slaw and tahini dressing.
There’s also an unusual selection of vegetarian dishes.
Dithering dessert addicts are catered for with a platter: cheesecake, fruit-garnished lemon meringue, best-selling chocolate fondant, sticky toffee pudding and vanilla ice-cream.
At weekends, a just-introduced brunch menu offers temptations like classic French toast (served with whipped cream, bacon and banana) and eggs Benedict royale alongside Danish pastries, gluten-free and more traditional options.
Service is enthusiastic and informed, quick to offer guidelines on favourite dishes and matching wines. While the focused winelist includes popular labels, I’d have welcomed a larger choice of wines by the glass. My more serious quibble concerns the temperature of the red wine.
Storage should possibly be looked at: even on a cold day I don’t enjoy warm wine.
However, the cocktail crowd should be in clover.
l Prices vary according to ingredients. Lunch flatbreads (served from noon to 5pm) around R80; starters and sharing plates from R60 (single portion); mains from R135 to R300 for portions for two; desserts from R50.