WHEN I arrived in Hermanus, the weather had turned. Great banks of grey cloud obliterated the rugged mountains that ring the town, while the sea was thundering in and the wind blowing everything near horizontal. And there, perched valiantly on a headland overlooking the old harbour, was The Marine Hotel. In the gloom it looked less like a five-star hotel than a colonial fort on some inhospitable shore.
But the welcome was warm. This was Cape country hospitality at its best without any hint of 5-star stuffiness. I’m taken in by the old Cape antiques and the splendid flower arrangements that show off the Cape floral kingdom in all its glory, arrangements that fill the almost double-volume space.
The Marine was built at the turn of the last century by Walter McFarlane, whose original fishing cottage he first turned into the Victoria Hotel to take advantage of the town's increasing reputation for its “Champagne air” and great fishing opportunities. Originally 21 rooms, it has been added to substantially over the years, keeping the grand arched windows that maximise views of the bay before it.
In its heyday in the 1920s and 1930s, the hotel was renowned for its lavish entertainment and some notable guests. Liz McGrath bought it in 1998 and quickly set about restoring it to its former glory.
I was shown to one of 40 individually decorated rooms that come complete with under-floor heating, his and hers basins, espresso machines, wi-fi, slippers and gowns in the cupboards. There’s a full mini-bar and a complementary bottle of wine – local of course. And even in the gale, impressive views of everything.
I had planned to walk the cliff path past the tidal pool to Voëlklip, past the holiday homes of the rich and famous through coastal forest to the magnificent extent of Grotto Beach, but the weather firmly said no.Instead I was quite happy to meander through the village in some of the alleys and byways behind the main street that hid interesting art galleries, decor shops, wine boutiques and artisanal delis.I stepped into another world at Romantiques, an antique shop complete with its own art-deco cinema and enjoyed an afternoon browsing some unusual and off-the-wall titles at the Book Cottage while enjoying a good cappuccino and the sounds of a Dvorak string quintet.
Dinner in the hotel’s Origins Restaurant was truly memorable. The group’s executive chef Peter Tempelhoff is renowned for creating dishes from the best and freshest local produce, and the local team did us proud. My tuna tartare, and fresh line fish with seasonal vegetables, were exceptional. We enjoyed the likes of pulled pork and lettuce wraps which you assembled at the table yourself, and parsnip crisps and seared game carpaccio. But the highlight was a beautifully rustic apple tart Tatin, with sage, caramel sauce and home-made vanilla ice cream.
Simple but delicious.