YOU have to hand it to the Taj. The hotel has made a positive selling point of its position at the top of St George’s Mall, “at the historic heart of South Africa’s Mother City, where slaves, colonialists, farmers, judges, politicians, scholars, freedom fighters and Nobel laureates helped shape the history of South Africa”.
But the particular plus point that made me smile was: “Experience the real Cape Town away from the hustle and bustle of the V&A Waterfront.”
Having heard that its Mint grill had been re-minted, I chose to check on the food. Accessing the grill though the imposing lobby, I expected the same spacious, opulent style. Instead, the restaurant is comfortable and informal, with the warm, welcoming ambience of a neighbourhood restaurant.
On three levels, with an open-plan show kitchen and mezzanine floor offering an uninterrupted view of St George’s Mall, Mint’s ceiling-high glass façade slides back, opening the restaurant to the mall where trees and sun-umbrella shaded tables recall the leisurely heyday of the city centre.
Cosseted by smiling staff, crowd-watching over lunch from a mall table, a glass of refreshing bubbles in hand, affords a fascinating panorama of Cape Town’s diverse captive workers. But in the morning, when the mall is filled with office-bound crowds, I’d suggest a wake-up coffee indoors. The coffee is good and a pancake stack with berries and cream is a speciality.
There’s an encouraging emphasis on healthy eco-friendliness. Plans include a roof garden, and the Taj has an ongoing commitment to the weekly Earth Fair food market in the mall. As for the food mood, friendly resident chef Luke Abrahams says menus (printed on recycled paper) are aimed at “attracting local food lovers who appreciate great service, a relaxed atmosphere and honest food”.
The Simply Mint à la carte lunch and early dinner menu offers plenty of choice. You’ll find trad avo Ritz (complete with Marie Rose sauce); appetising home-baked quiches, sandwiches and wraps; tasty vegetarian salads, cheese and pasta; and stone-charred, pepper-crusted or pan-seared grills, with shoestring fries and a bouquetier of fresh vegetables.
Don’t expect bobotie. Your curry fix is provided by Mumbai Tiffin, an Indian set lunch offering both chicken and linefish curries of the day, with dal, basmati rice and paratha (bread cooked on a griddle). With top-ups, if you have the space.
Be warned; portions are generous. I was unadventurous, lured by the Norwegian salmon, perfectly seared and beautifully presented with Hollandaise sauce, spinach potato cake and vegetables, but it left me no room for dessert – even the tempting warm chocolate decadence with marmalade ice cream.
There’s nothing barrier-breaking about the food, which is familiar, fresh and appetising, enhanced by smiling, five-star service. There’s no need to concentrate, trying to identify elusive flavours. Just sit back, unwind and enjoy your meal – which is exactly what the hotel has in mind.
And don’t ignore the wine list. Not only are there organic labels, but the list won a 2013 Diners Club platinum award, signifying well-chosen wine that complements the cuisine.
l Starters from R55 to R85; sandwiches and wraps R70-R90; light meals R95-R150; Mumbai Tiffin R120; grills R120-R180; bakery treats R45-R50.